Bass Guitar

Musical topics not directly related to steel guitar

Moderator: Dave Mudgett

User avatar
Jon Light (deceased)
Posts: 14336
Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: Saugerties, NY
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Bass Guitar

Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

I have a bass (Ibanez RoadstarII) that has been sitting unstrung for a long time. I'm lending it to someone and I'm about to string it up.
Before I do, any helpful tips? Like how much slack to leave for the right amount of winds around the post.
Or anything else that I wouldn't even know to ask?<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jon Light on 21 February 2001 at 02:45 PM.]</p></FONT>
User avatar
Martin Abend
Posts: 1037
Joined: 1 Mar 1999 1:01 am
Location: Berlin, Germany
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Martin Abend »

If you wind the strings up make sure that the last winding is as close on the head as possible, so the string has maximum pressure on the saddle - I have no idea if I use the proper terminology, but if you understand what I mean and do so it will make a significan differnce concering your tone. At least it it with my Fender Jazz Bass.



------------------
martin abend my homepage chicotarde@web.de
s-10 sierra crown gearless 3 x4 - fender hotrod deluxe


User avatar
Jack Stoner
Posts: 22147
Joined: 3 Dec 1999 1:01 am
Location: Kansas City, MO
State/Province: Kansas
Country: United States

Post by Jack Stoner »

My wife has an older Ibanez "Blazer" model bass. I usually have about two complete turns on each string.

Fender, on my Telecaster, suggests cutting the string about two tuning keys past the one you are installing it on. My Telecaster has the "classic" tuning keys with the hole down the center of the tuning key post, the same as the tuning keys on the Ibanez bass. The two tuning key distance is what I use on the bass and it seems to work out.

We use GHS Brite Flats, light gauge on it. The Brite Flats are what GHS used to call Groundwounds.
User avatar
Tony Orth
Posts: 497
Joined: 5 Dec 2000 1:01 am
Location: Evansville, Indiana, USA
State/Province: Indiana
Country: United States

Post by Tony Orth »

Jon,
I have played bass for a number of years and I'm just now learning the steel.
The previous suggestions are fine and I have but one thing to add. If the bass has set unstrung for a while, and if the neck tension was not released when the string were removed, you might notice that, after stringing it up, some or all of the strings will buzz againt the frets. Do not adjust for a few days. Let the bass set with the strings set to pitch and it may settle back into the correct neck releif.
If you want to check the neck relief, do the following.
1. with strings tuned to pitch, place a capo on the first fret.
2. hold the large (E) string down at the last fret.
3. While holding that string down, measure the distance from string to fret at the eighth (8th) fret with a feeler guage.
The relief should be about .014 or .015.

If you decide to readjust the neck, do it a quarter of a turn at a time. Wait overnight after the adjustment to give the neck time to settle.

Good luck
Tony Orth
User avatar
Jon Light (deceased)
Posts: 14336
Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: Saugerties, NY
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

To all--thank you. Tony--I've done some guitar set-up--in fact I've built a couple--so I am indeed familiar with what you describe--especially the time element involved with truss rod adjustments. However I've never done this stuff with a bass so your specifics will be good and helpful.
Ditto to all the other suggestions.